Month: September, 2011

Children`s fashion show in Boda.

Text and photo Laila Duran ©

Photo Laila Duran Copyright

Passionate folk costume collector Britt Eklund and her husband Knapp Lennart Petterson have a yearly tradition of inviting people to see the great variety of folk costumes from Boda, Dalecarlia. With friends and family they arrange a folk costume fashion show. In July this year they gathered at Boda Gammelgård and drew quite a crowd. The weather was lovely and more than 30 children and adults showed garments from the extensive collection, starting with babies less than a year old.

I was invited to take some photos for the next book, Scandinavian Folklore II, and hope you will enjoy some of the extra photos from the shoot. All these costumes are from the area of Boda and show the way children were dressed in the 19th century.

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This young  girl is dressed in a summer frock.

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The hanging pockets from Boda are a feast to the eye. Many different fabrics, in a variety of colors, are used and they are decorated with buttons and embroidery yarn. This “liduväska” was made in 2001.

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The girl is dressed for Sunday afternoon in a frock with sleeves.

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These boys are dressed in “adult” clothes from Boda.

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Big sister is wearing clothes for everyday use, while her little brother is dressed for church. Somewhere along the way his cap fell off. All children were wearing headdresses when going to church.

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A child´s shoe from the 19th Century.

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The girl is wearing adult clothes used for everyday wear. Young girls wore their hair loose under the bonnet until they reached the age of seven when they started school. After that the hair was tied up and covered.

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This young boy is dressed in a long dark blue frock with sleeves and a red handwoven apron with a calico bib. This would have been worn to church.
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Britt Eklund is explaining the way children used to be dressed in Boda. There is a “costume almanac” and every Sunday and holiday of the year has a rule on how to dress when visiting the church. She is dressed for work on weekdays.

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The printed cotton headdress was used only between the age when girls were wearing a frock (kolt) until the time of confirmation. After confirmation she will wear the headdress of the unmarried woman.

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A sheepskin frock and knitted mittens and stockings keeps the baby warm during winter.

In the book Scandinavian Folklore II, Britt Eklund will write on the use of children´s clothing in Boda. The extensive collection includes old garments from the 19th century as well as newly made reconstructions.

Small team, big productions!

Text and photo Laila Duran ©

Making a book, or books, takes a lot of different skills. I am so lucky to have friends and colleagues generously helping out in all aspects of the production. One of the fist things we do starting a new project is taking the photos, and yes I am the photographer, but here is how it works. As I travel around Scandinavia our team works tightly together and everybody helps out. Here is an introduction to some of the people that makes the books possible. They are all very much over-qualified for the tasks I give them but with good humor and understanding of the process of producing a book they help out in every way they can. They write, translate, guide and model …. and bring indispensable help to me during the photo-shoots.

This is Isak Utsi, a young man who introduced me to his family, friends and the whole Sami village of Sirgies. He is guiding me, teaching me about the life of the reindeer keeper and helps me during the sometimes adventurous photo shoots. He is also a very good photographer……

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Isak is featured on several pages in the book Scandinavian Folklore vol 1.

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When we need a pack of reindeer for a photo-shoot, Isak is definitely our man.

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We take pictures in all kinds of weather. Here the fog is thick and the rain pouring down. Still the photos has magic…..

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Scholar and ethnologist Anne Kristin Moe is the co-author of Scandinavian Folklore vol 1 and 2. She will also be the author of the book “Norwegian Embroidered Bunads”. Here she is wearing some very flattering props used on a photo shoot this summer.

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Being a photo assistant can be challenging!

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Martin Ciszuk, textile historian, at work with one of the walker-on at a shoot at Vallby Friluftsmuseum.

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At every visit we take notes. Here Martin is making sure everybody gets to tell the story of their regional costume.

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Whenever we need a model, Martin knows all the right moves.

Photo Laila Duran CopyrightThis is Tordis Gjevre. After more than 30 years of field work at “The Norwegian Institute of Bunads and Folk Costumes” she is the person we turn to whenever the costumes has to be fitted and the models properly dressed. She is also a very good sport and often comes to the locations to make sure we do things right.

Foto-Laila-Duran-CopyrightLast but not least is Torkel Henriksson, who is doing all the original artwork on the books. Here he is riding his horse Nirvana, dressed in a costume from Nås in Western Dalecarlia which will be presented in the next book, Scandinavian Folklore vol 2.

New book in production, “Norwegian Embroidered Bunads”. Release in the autumn of 2012.

Text and photo Laila Duran ©

The embroidered bunads of Norway are one of the most loved and used folk costumes of Scandinavia today. Many variations of the embroidered designs are traced back to as late as the 18th century. Now the production of a new book has started: “ Norwegian Embroidered Bunads”, (Norske broderte bunader). Scholar and ethnologist Anne Kristin Moe, former director of “The Norwegian Institute of Bunads and Folk Costumes”, presently starting her new appointment at “Norsk Folkemuseum” in Oslo, will be the author. Her MA on this subject will be the source of the texts which will be presented in both Norwegian and English. Martin Ciszuk, MA degree in textile history, lecturer at the School of Textiles, University of Borås will supervise the English translation and photographer Laila Durán will do the photography and the layout of the book.

Apart from hundreds of photos illustrating the variation of bunads, old photos from museums archives will be used to show the early use of embroidery on bunads in the 20st century. Traveling widely around Norway we are in search of the originals used in the representation of this tradition of textile art. During the year it will take us to finish this task we will blog, showing photos and fragments of text from the book. Here is a first glimpse of the type of book we intend to produce. – This bunad is from Valdres and is one of the first embroidered bunads designed at the beginning of the 20th Century.  Enjoy!

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The “Old Valdres Bunad” is one of the first embroidered bunads designed in 1914. The motif was copied from a bonnet dated the middle of the 19th century.

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The bright colored wool embroidery from the bonnet was traced to the bodice-skirt and hanging pocket, which gives the bunad a coherent impression.

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The silver belt is a new addition to the “Old Valdres Bunad”.

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At the hem of the skirt you can see the full repeat of the design from the original.

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This is a fragment of the original. The book will present detailed photos of both the originals and the costumes the way they are made today. With the courtesy of Norsk Folkemuseum in Oslo we will also be able to show old photographs from the 20th century.