Category: Details in Fashion

Slippery sloops in snowy Leksand.

Text and photo Laila Duran ©

This week I have been to Leksand, Dalecarlia, doing photo shoots in the beautiful surroundings of Siljan. Leksand has a rich and old folk costume tradition with a great variety of costumes. A costume almanac was used in the region and we have been able to take photos of several old garments. The hilly landscape in combination with the snow made the photo shoot into an adventure for the models. The folk costumes shoes are made of thick leather and are warm, but they are also slippery. Doing their very best to do as I instructed the models often ended up lying in the snow. Luckily, the fur and wool garments are made for the climate.

These two ladies are doing the only sensible thing: holding on to each other and wait for the rest of the family to arrive. Both are wearing wool caps over the traditional headdresses made of cotton.

The costumes are practical and warm. Leather, fur and broadcloth, with plenty off knitted accessories.

Underneath the short jackets the ladies are wearing a leather bodice. Beautifully decorated with embroidery.

Under the fur skirt she is wearing a linen shift and thick knitted stockings. The wool apron is decorated with floral printed cotton at the hem.

The photo shoots was made in cooperation with private collector Gunilla Landmark and Leksands Kulturhus. In the next two books, in the series Scandinavian Folklore, there will be several pages of photos of the Leksand costumes used on both weekdays, during sundays and at festive occasions. Kulturhuset in Leksand has interesting exhibitions going on. Please visit  http://www.leksand.se/sv/Startsida/Kultur-och-fritid/Kulturhuset/

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Leksand in Delecarlia has a strong tradition of folk costumes.

Text and photo Laila Duran ©

The parish of Leksand in Dalecarlia, Sweden, have a long and unbroken tradition of local folk costumes. Like many of the costumes from the region of Siljan, the old fashioned costumes have a distinct character with great variation. It is foremost the women´s costumes that have been frequently used at festive occasions and holidays. The traditional Leksand costume has no less than nine different aprons (“majder” is the local name) to be used during the year of “the costume almanac”. On this photo you can tell the social status on the two women by their head dress. The white headdress, “kärringhatt”, is for the married woman and the red , “rödhätta”, is for the unmarried. They are dressed in their Sunday best and still one of them is knitting. It was a common sight in Dalecarlia to see women walking and knitting during the light hours of the day.

The white “kärringhatt” has embroidery at the neck and a black and white ribbon tied over the top of the head. The ribbon is called “sotgarnsband”, soot yarn ribbon, since the black yarn was dyed with soot. The married woman´s jacket is a modern version and the cut strongly influenced by the fashion of late 19th century. The weave of the fabric in her jacket is “Monk´s Belt” a weave that is still popular today.

The knitting of socks and mittens was a constant preoccupation amongst the ladies. Spending time doing nothing was not heard of. Both ladies are dressed for Sunday but not for church

The white “two-end-knitted” (tvåändstickad) stockings are a vital part of the costume. The red pompoms on the shoes are called “toppor”.

In late 19th century the women in Leksand started to use watches as accessories with their costumes. Here the watch chain is decorated with a small gold heart and the watch tucked away in the bodice.

The man from Leksand is wearing an old waistcoat and handmade breeches in chamois leather. The stocking is similar to the woman´s stocking and are held up by leather garters. The knitted cap he is wearing is called “tupphätta”.

Many of the garments used on the photo shoots for Scandinavian Folklore Volume II are old garments from private collections and museums. This old waistcoat and stockings are from a private collection.

At Leksand Hemslöjd, Leksand arts and crafts, many of the costumes of the area are exhibited. The shop also offers a selection of both old and new garments as well as tailor made costumes. Please visit:  http://www.leksandshemslojd.se/

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Knitting and embroidery. Little works of art to keep your hands warm.

Text and photo Laila Duran ©

Bunad from Numedal in the County of Buskerud. The knitted gloves has colorful embroidery and a flossed edging.

The mittens and gloves used with bunads or folk costumes are often small works of art. Embroidery is often used to decorate knitted hand garments all over Scandinavia. It was during a photo shoot in Norway I met an old man who wanted to show me some knitted glows and mittens that had been worn by his parents at their wedding. They where beautifully knitted and had colorful wool embroidery. I was surprised that hand garments like this was so well preserved, but he smiled and said that his parents had never used them again unless it was a very special occasion. They where just too precious.

These mittens have been used by a bride on her wedding day at the beginning of the 20th century.

The West Telemark bunad has embroidered cuffs on the leg-of-mutton-sleave and the black gloves are decorated in the same colors.

The bridegroom gloves. A hundred years old and still with radiant colors.

These mittens have large cuffs with napped edging. The man is wearing a bunad from Valdres.

Knottless knitting, in Swedish Nålbindning, is a technique often used to make the mittens warmer. These are from a collection in Boda in Dalecarlia, Sweden.

The embroidery from Dala Floda in Dalecarlia is spectacular. The many colors and abundance of floral pattern are used on several of the folk costume garments from the area. Jackets, caps, braces, cuffs and lovely, lovely mittens.

If you want to get some more inspiration on how to knitt please visit the “Born to knit-blog”. Johanne Ländin is writing (in english) about her passion for knitting. http://borntoknitblog.blogspot.com/

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